Le Monde | • Updated | By
Difficult to get in a poisonous atmosphere. The luxury group Kering announced Wednesday, March 23 the appointment of Australian Justin O’Shea to the direction of the creation of his masculine brand Brioni. Just when the looming cuts in the size of the house that has long dressed James Bond and continues to dress both Barack Obama Donald Trump.
Having kept for seven years a sharp eye on the collections of designers worldwide as purchasing manager in the online sales site mytheresa.com, Justin O’Shea will start on 1 st of April. He will assume the position Irishman Brendan Mullane, whose three-year contract was not renewed in late January.
This institution in chic suits for men, born in Penne in the Abruzzo region at the end of WWII crosses again pass very difficult. For seven years, 275 jobs have already been lost in Penne – particularly because of the judgment of the female variety – and 54 other workers have lost their jobs in the three other sites at the company, according to the Italian press. Trade unions are once again headwind since Kering wants, they say, “Remove one third of the workforce, or 400 jobs out of a total of 1200″ ( Le Monde of March 9). The case caused a stir in Italy. The member of Gianluca Vacca and Abruzzo Regional Councillor Domenico Pettinari appealed to the minister of labor and the economy.
Negotiations with unions
29 February Gianluca Flore, CEO of Brioni since November 2014, met with union representatives to make an inventory of the situation of the company. In Paris, Kering ensures that “overproduction situation that is Brioni requires adapting production capacity to current market needs, making necessary staff reductions” . The parent does not confirm the figure of 400 job cuts but ensures that the four Italian sites, three of which are based in Abruzzo and the last near Bergamo, continue to work.
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” negotiations with the unions start and should last a few months, everything will be done to minimize the number of departures “ do we assure to Paris. Brioni will retain its 46 points of sale worldwide. Kering does not give the financial results of its subsidiary: they are included in its annual accounts in a division that includes other brands such as Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, Pomelato … All these claws saw their operating profit fall by 9.9% in 2015 to € 132.7 million.
While the plant manufactured Penne, in its most glorious time, up 70,000 garments per year, forecasts for 2016 would have been reduced to 30 000 according to the Italian daily Il Sole 24 Ore . Given the extremely high cost of jackets and coats (7 000 to 50 000 euros for those custom sewn and made of rare materials such as vicuña), Brioni feels the brunt of the macroeconomic risks. The collapse of the Russian and Middle Eastern clients, which had bet on Kering since its acquisition of Brioni in 2012, explains much of the decline.
80% s Operations ‘still done manually
Historically, at Brioni, which highlights its expertise, rows of seamstresses work without machine, just with a little cushion in front of them that allows them to sew by hand collars and buttonholes. More than 80% of operations are carried out manually so that the manufacturing time of a suit between 20 and 22 hours, whereas it takes three times faster among competitors.
So that the big luxury groups – Ermenegildo Zegna, Berluti and Arnys (LVMH), Kiton, Hermes, Kering (with Brioni, Bottega Veneta, Gucci, Saint Laurent and Alexander McQueen), Tom Ford, Burberry – all left there a few years to conquer these gentlemen, their passions have calmed somewhat since. Kering is the first to cut the numbers of Brioni. The group chaired by François-Henri Pinault has also recently conducted 26 job cuts of 313 in its subsidiary Swiss watchmaker Ulysse Nardin
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